Album: Installing the tanks

     Album:Vegetable Oil Conversion:Installing the tanks

The next step is to actually install the tanks and dirty/clean filter/pump and connect the hoses.

Pushlock connectors are excellent for avoiding leaks, but they're tough to get on. Installation tip: Use silicone spray liberally on the connector and inside of the hose before pushing hose on. It helps immensely.

Starting to plumb the clean tank.
( comments) 		Starting to plumb the dirty tank
and exchanger/filter/pump #1 ( comments) 		The bracket to hold
in the dirty tank. ( comments) 		I make a mount
to hold the dirty exchanger/filter/pump (as well as help lock in the tank) ( comments)
The exchanger/filter/pump combo,
plumbed and mounted. ( comments) 		I add a second
strap for better strength. ( comments) 		I cut the cargo bay walls
where I'll be running the SVO hoses. I found some rubber molding that fits the edges perfectly to protect the hoses. ( comments) 		The back hole/port in the back bay,
molding being added. ( comments)
The location of the back port.
( comments) 		The cargo bay, complete
(except for the collection pump). ( comments) 		Unfortunately the coolant flow
wasn't balanced. All the flow went to the heat exchanger and the coils were cold. So I tried running a bigger hose along the main flow to the first coil. ( comments) 		You can see the hack job
where the new hose comes in, bottom right. Unfortunately this wasn't good enough. ( comments)
New setup.
Hot coolant splits, some goes to clean tank, other goes through valve to dirty tank filters and heat. This way I can turn off the dirty tank and still run WVO if the engine is having trouble staying hot. ( comments) 		The new coolant return tree.
( comments) 		The top of the heat exchanger
now has a valve on it to adjust flow - too much was going through the big exchanger and too little through the dirty coils. ( comments) 		The final setup.
( comments)
Photo album generated by album generator a script written by David Ljung on Thu Jan 28 03:53:04 2016